New South Howser Descent Beta

I’ve badly been wanting to visit the Bugaboos every summer for the last few years. Slowly my friends went and ticked off many of the classic routes, while I never seemed to have the time for a week or longer climbing trip. With trying to finish grad school, this summer was seeming no different. In July, Jared went to the Bugaboos intent on climbing the Beckey Chouinard on South Howser, but in the end he settled for the classic NE Ridge on Bugaboo. Immediately upon his return we began discussing plans to go back. Given time constraints, the trip would have to be short. 4 days became 5 days, which ultimately became 3 days. Just barely enough time to climb the BC assuming weather and everything cooperated (unlikely). Leading up to last weekend, the forecast was looking nearly perfect. Warm temps and 0% chance of precip in Radium. We settled on a Thursday evening departure.

To make the short trip more affordable, we stopped by my parents house and traded my minivan for my mom’s hybrid civic. Around 5:00 we were on our way out of town. It wasnt until Moses Lake that we realized we had forgotten to by hard alcohol. The GPS revealed a nearby liquor store, but when we arrived it was closed down. Scrolling through the list of of nearby towns and liquor stores, one by one we found they were all closed for the evening. We resolved to complete our climb without a celebratory beverage waiting at camp. After the long drive through northern Idaho, we crossed the border without issue. By now it was 2 AM and we were getting tired. We eventually found a good camp spot on a dirt road a few miles before Cranbrook. The next morning we were up around 5 AM and back on the road. Shitty breakfast at Tim Hortons in Cranbrook and we were off. In Invermere we spotted a Liquor/grocery store and thought maybe the day would be saved. It was 8AM, but when we pulled up to the door we found that it didnt open until 9AM. Beaten, and unwilling to wait an hour, we headed back out. Just as we pulled out of the parking lot I made a startling revelation: MOUNTAIN TIME! We pulled back around to the front of the store while the checker went about unlocking the doors. Surely the mountain gods were smiling on us. We grabbed some Whiskey and hopped back on the highway. Shortly after Radium, we left the highway and picked up the dirt road leading to the trailhead.

Near the end of the road is the pretty Bugaboo Falls.

The trailhead was very full, with only one or two reasonable parking spots around. This immediately concerned us with traffic on the popular routes. Nonetheless, we shouldered our already-too-heavy packs and hit the trail. The trail starts in flat forest for a mile or so before breaking out for about 2000′ of sweaty uphill climbing with beautiful scenery.

Although the trail crosses some fairly rugged terrain, it has been equipped with ladders and chain hand rails to provide safe and easy passage.

My cold pizza was a welcome treat at our lunch stop at the hut. The hut is quite the luxuirous place with stoves, running water, toilets and beautiful views. Unfortunately it seems far to low in elevation to provide a good basecamp for any reasonable climbing trip.

Above the hut, the trail follows very nice moraine trails with rock stairs on all the steep bits. Those climbing around the Bugaboo and Crescent glaciers can make a nice camp here, but our destination was still a good ways off. The first major obstacle is the Bugaboo-Snowpatch col:

The difficulty of reaching the col typically increases throughout the season, shifting from easy snow, to ice, to loose rock. We caught it with mostly snow, with patches of ice underneath. Crampons and ice axes were welcome, although others made due without crampons.

Above the col we had the first view of our objectives. Turns out that crossing the Vowel Glacier is actually a pretty significant distance and another climb. Pigeon spire on the left and the Howsers on the right.

Approaching Pigeon Howser Col

From the Pigeon Howser Col, it was finally all down hill to camp in East Creek basin. There were reportedly some crevasses opening along the way, so we stayed roped up for the descent.

Much to our surprise, in spite of the great weather and approaching weekend, East Creek had only one other party (a group of strong climbers freeing old aid lines). This was a large relief as other climbers along the approach informed us of a large international party who had fixed ropes up the lower half of the route, culminating in a very busy previous day. I was pretty upset about the thought of fixed ropes destroying some of the alpine nature of the climb. Luckily this mess had been cleaned up when we arrived and we had our choice of prime camp sites.

From camp we had a great view of our route, which would ascend the obvious long buttress.

During dinner we watched the strong Belgian climbers freeing an aid route in the Pigeon Feathers. (One of them, Nicolas Favresse recently made the 2nd ascent of Cobra Crack, one of the worlds hardest crack climbs, in 7 tries). If you look closely you can see a climber in red near the top of the prominent dihedral.

In packing for the next day we had many mixed thoughts. This would be one of the biggest routes either of us had climbed and we weren’t too certain what to expect and what to bring. Light is right, but how light could we get away with? The night would be warm, but we knew an axe would be handy for the descent back to east creek. Similarly, crampons looked like they would be handy on both approach and descent. I’m in the habit of always bringing a light puffy jacket, so that went in a pack. Jared only had a heavier down jacket, but in case of unplanned bivy it would be nice to have. The bugaboos are notorious for rain, so I brought an 8 oz rain shell…. Basically, things were adding up fast. We basically bought enough gear that an unplanned bivy in worsening weather would be tolerable. We planned to split gear between leader and follower packs.

The leader pack contained

12 oz down jacket
1 L water (+1 L that we would drink at base of route)
1 pair grivel aluminum crampons
1 ice axe
1600 calories or so of food
Medium weight softshell jacket

The follower pack contained

26 oz down jacket
2 L water
2 pairs boots
1 axe
Crampons
1600 Cal food
8 oz rain jacket
Spot GPS PLB thingy
Sunblock
Compass
Space Blanket

On the approach scramble, group gear would be more or less split evenly. Including:
Two 7.8mm x 60m half ropes
Blue – Red Tcus
0.5-4 camalots
green, blue and silver DMM 4cus
1 set of nuts

We turned in early, but the bright sky made sleep difficult. Still, we managed a few hours and were up around 4:15 and soon ready to go. After an obvious descent on loose scree and talus, we climbed a steep snow patch leading to the ridge.

The ridge starts with enjoyable scrambling over large boulders, with occasional snow patches. It is quite fun, but there is a much easier bypass to climbers left. Half way up, we dropped to the snowy bypass and gained the next few hundred feet much more easily. Eventually we came to the start of the route. We were climbing on brand new 7.8 half/twin ropes, so flaking was a bit of an issue. I won the rock paper scissors and took off up the first pitch, intending to simulclimb the first 3. Rope tangles immediately became an issue, which slowed things down. Jared ended up tying in around 30m and we’d just deal with the ropes later. On P2 I think I made a small route finding error and found myself on terrain that felt a good bit harder than 5.4. A belayed Jared up, then we sorted out the ropes and I led off again. For P3, I couldnt resist the splitter right hand crack (topo says to take left). It felt a bit harder than 5.6 to me (more like 5.7-5.8), but well worth it.

Somewhere near the start

Jared coming up P3

Jared got the first crux pitch. Great crack climbing up a steepening wall to an awesome juggy crux roof. Topo said insecure, but the roof itself is just bomber moves on great holds.

P4 didnt look like much, but turned out to be very fun. Steep 5.8 climbing leads to easy ground, then a choice of unprotected chimney on left or awesome face cracks on the right. I walked up to the chimney, then promptly wandered over to much better looking climbing on the right.

Up next the route continued to get even better as we entered the “Big Dihedral”. Not sure on length, but it is probably around 300′ long and almost entirely 5.8 with some steep and wide stings in it. We ended up breaking it into 3 pitches instead of 2 out of fear of a hanging belay stance.

After the dihedral, the next pitch doesnt look like much from below. A ledge becomes a gully, which steepens into some surprisingly awesome 5.6 climbing.

At this point we were getting hungry and decided to take a break and let the party behind us pass. We had a nice time watching them climb the pitch and move along their way. This pitch started with some steep hard moves, then stayed pretty sustained throughout. Some of the pro was a bit strenuous, but Jared stuck with it and got it done in good style.

Next pitch was another business pitch. All of a sudden we were feeling pretty dehydrated and the climbing ahead was looking even harder. At the advice of the party ahead of us, I decided to haul my pack on this pitch, then belay short after the crux. The pitch was a brilliant hand and fist crack that ended in an awkward chimney. The protection was excellent, and the climbing strenuous. Here is Jared helping the hauled pack through the chimney.

Another very fast party with almost no gear caught up to us at this point, so we took another break and let them pass. Jared took the 2nd half of the pitch, which is less strenuous, but still pretty challenging and a bit wet. The pitch passes an old piton, then moves in to a grove before tackling some intimidating moves up high.

In giving Jared the 2nd half of the previous pitch, I had given myself one of the more feared pitches on the route through the squeeze chimney. I was very dehyrated by now and my muscles were cramping with most movement. We were running pretty low on water. The pitch starts with a 5.9 balance move to gain the corner. Half ropes make this move easy to protect, but I imagine a single rope would necessitate running out the move. The climbing in the corner was challening, but very good. A small finger crack ran up left of the corner allowing frequent nuts and small cams. There were also amazing face holds scattered up the face. The pitch had quite a few cruxy feeling moves on it, many of which were quite difficult with a pack and cramping arms. After finally gaining the squeeze I was distraught to find it dripping wet. I licked the rock a few times to hydrate and noted that I was also running low on protection and slings. I stuck it out and got through, very relieved to arrive at the belay. Jared followed quickly, only being briefly stymied by the chimney with the larger followers pack.

The next pitch started with just a short crux, then rapidly eased off to scrambling terrain. Jared decided to play a cruel joke on my cramping body by finishing the pitch with a short overhanging 5.9 hand crack. The climbing was awesome, and we were finished with the meat of the route, so I wasnt too upset.

We drank our last half liter of water and I sized up the pitch ahead. Two perfect hand and finger cracks. I took the right one to avoid any more wideness. For the first time a pitch felt easier than the advertised grade (5.8) and I was relieved.

Jared took the next pitch past the crux with some TR help from two well placed pins. From there, an easy gully led upwards. I wasnt to sure how to follow the traverse. Jared said he couldnt get any gear in to position one of our ropes in TR position from above. Fearing a swinging pendulum I threaded my one rope through the eye of a piton and climbed the traverse with TRs from both sides. Turning the corner I realized my shenanigans where unnecessary. I untied my blue rope, pulled it back through the piton and continued on my way.

A short down climb and rappel led us to the base of some blocky terrain. Two more simul pitches finally brought us to the summit.

We were met on the summit by yet another very fast party of 3 (including Ines Papert). One of the climbers had finished a new single rope bolted rappel route down the NE Buttress 2 days prior. In exchange for us letting their group of three go first, they offered us some beta on the route.

The rappels started well, taking a nice reasonably clean line over some broken terrain. On the 4th rappel we encountered our first problem. Jared rappeled down, but upon reaching the end of our ropes he found himself 20 feet from the ledge and the next anchor. Luckily Jared had the 2nd rope and some gear in his pack. He built an anchor, tied off, and pulled the 2nd rope through, allowing him to easily make the ledge. Significant time was lost and the other party was now long gone.

Another single rope rappel over blocky terrain led us to a steepening wall. Jared headed down with it now becoming dark. Initially we followed the main weakness of the wall. Jared could not see any more blots at the end of his ropes. I recommended he climb back up a ways and try the cleaner wall around the corner. Eventually he found the anchor, but could just barely reach the bolts with his feet. He clipped in and let the ropes slide through his device. Frustrated with the supposed 30m raps, I tied the 2nd rope on and rappeled down to Jared. We decided all future raps would be double rope, even if that increased the odds of stuck ropes. The next anchor again was about 32m away, but logically located. One or two more raps and we were over the bergshrund and able to finally start the slog back to camp.

The creek near camp allowed us to rehydrate a bit. At camp we ate a very late dinner and soomehow spent another hour or more eating dinner and drinking our bottle of whisky. It was almost 2AM now, not sure how we stayed up that long.

We slept in until 8:00 or so, when we were awoken by the screams of the Belgians working to free a beautiful line on the Minaret. They put on an impressive show during breakfast.

Laying in my sleeping bag, still a bit exhausted I decided that I really wanted to climb the W. Ridge of Pigeon on our way back out. It was too close and too classic to pass up. I knew it would put of our arrival home by a good bit, but it seemed well worth it. We packed up our stuff and broke camp shortly after 10:00AM. 2 hours or so later we had dropped out packs on the glacier, and were walking up to the base of Pigeon.

There were a few groups on the ridge pitching things out. We hoped to climb fast, and luckily all groups were quite accommodating. Right off the bat, the climbing was outstanding. Some of the grippiest rock I’ve ever seen. The moves were very easy, but thoroughly enjoyable. A nice contrast with the strenuous nature of the climbing the day before.

Before long, we passed the 3 parties on route and made our way to the infamous Cheval Arete.

A bit more easy climbing with some short 5th class steps and we were on the summit.

Shortly after we heard our first thunder. We made two rappels from the summit, then proceeded to quickly down climb the ridge.

Sometimes down is up:

On the way down we passed all of the other parties, who had been forced to cut their climbs short in light of worsening weather. At the base we discussed our options for waiting out the storm. All of our gear was on the glacier, so decided to make a sprint to our packs and back to bugaboo-snowpatch col where we found a nice large boulder to wait out the storm.

After things let up a bit, we down climbed from the col and began the painful trudge back to the car. Back at the car we drank some surprising still cold beer and began packing up. Jared decided to create some panic by locking the car key in the trunk with the valet lock activated. After about 30 min of trying to figure out what to do, we found a small screw next to the lock, that when removed allowed the trunk to be opened. We stopped for food in Invermermere, then began the never ending drive home while trying our best to fight off the urge to sleep. A 2 hour nap near Coeur d’ Alene and a bunch of red bull eventually got us back to Seattle around 6AM. I slept in until around 10 AM before heading in to work. Jared got about 45 min sleep before driving up to work in Sedro Wooley.